|1878 Edmund Hill Diary (Europe)|
Wed. July 10.
Left N.Y 1.55 P.M.
Father and Mother and Ray came to see me off. Sun very hot. Pilot left at Sandy Hook. Gave him a postal card to take home. Got sick about 4.30. Went down in stateroom. Sick about ½ h. My roommate is named Smith - comes from New York. 276 cabin passengers - about 100 steerage.
Ate little breakfast. Made a good many friends. Saw the sun rise this morning.
Good meals. Went down in stokersroom. Cost a quarter to get out. Mr Blackwell has not been sick. Mr Green has been very sick. Saw 2 ships
Divine service in saloon. Captain Hains, of our ship Scythia, had charge. Rev Mr McVicker of Phila. preached. Sang Moody & Saukey songs on deck after 6 oclock dinner.
Pools are sold every day. Concert in the cabin. John
B. Gough lectured. Also had a
Sat on deck after dinner and sang college songs. Made friends with an Episcopalian clergyman and his little son Jack to whom I gave my pocket knife. They come from the Bahamas.
Saw about a doz vessels and steamers also got a glimpse of a whale.
Had heavy fog at noon. Saw a steamer at night. Had a fine time signalling each other with red lights rockets and Roman candles.
Was up at 6 ½ A.M. just in time to get the first fine view of the Irish coast. Was taken ashore in a lighter(?) at Queenstown. Missed the first boat to Cork. Took dinner at the Queens Hotel. Then took boat through beautiful scenery to Passage and rail to Cork with a party from the Scythia named Eldridge. Went to Imperial Hotel left my traps and took jaunting car to Blarney Castle. I kissed the Blarney stone.
Expected to go on the 8 oclock train to Killarney but did not awake till 8.05. Rambled around Cork and saw much of Irish home life, saw the barracks and 300 red oats drilling. Took 3rd class cars to Killarney, at 2.45: Found 3rd class wretched. Went to Royal Victoria Hotel about 3 miles from the station and situated on the lake. Met a fine old English gentleman named Monnies (?) and his son Robert. Robert and I took a ride on the Lake after table de hote and saw an old ruin on an island
After breakfast joined a party and made a trip of forty miles by wagonette, ponies and boats through the Gap of Dunbar and over the Lakes. Saw Kate Kearneys cottage, was amused with the beggars, had a big tumble from my pony, and sprained my shoulder, saw Muckross(?) Abbey and Ross Castle
Remained at Killarney to rest from my fall and get some washing done. Day was quite warm. After breakfast, borrowed an umbrella from the hotel keeper and walked over to Ross Castle, thence to the town of Killarney, thence to the Earl of Kenmares new mansion and back to the hotel, in all about ten miles.
Took the morning train for Dublin, reached there at 5 oclock, hired an Irishman to guide me about the city. We walked all over, and saw the Wellington Monument, Phoenix Park, Custom House, St Patrick Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral the Castle, Nelsons Monument, Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Grattans statue, and most all the public buildings There to train to Kingstown 7 miles off and slept on the "Ulster" a mail packet leaving early in the morning for Holyhead.
Holyhead Lost the key of my satchel. Rambled around the quaint old town Holyhead till 3 oclock then went to Bangor. Had a good view of Bangor from the hill top and went to service in the old Abbey.
Met a party of Yorkshire men on a pleasure trip. Went with them to Menai Brige saw that, got caught in a heavy shower, then we all took the train for Carnarvon, some seven miles distant. Saw the Carnarvon Castle ruins, then went to Bangor and afterward to Chester. Stopped at Blossoms Hotel, the queerest I ever saw. Walked around the ancient walls. Came back to the hotel got acquainted with the landlord and a gentleman named Boynton who offered to show me the city tomorrow. The funniest town I ever saw
Met Mr Boynton, saw the Judge going in style to the Assize Court viewed the two Cathedrals, the Museum, the Roman Baths, and the Rows and old houses. Took the afternoon train to Liverpool. Rec. a letter from home
Bought a package of Cooks Excursion tickets also hotel coupons. Arranged at the Cunard office to go home on the Algeria, Sept 21st Looked around Liverpool, then took cars to Glasgow. Reached there 11 P.M.
Spent Sabbath in Glasgow. Took a walk to Georges Square, then attended Baptist Church and afterward looked through the old Cathedral. After dinner I saw the Green, the West End Park and met a clever Scotchman who showed me about the city
Started on the tour through Loch Lomond, Lock Katrine the Trossack(?) and so on to Stirling. The weather was perfect and the view all that could be wished for. Pushed on to Edinburgh the same evening reaching there at 10 ½ oclock.
Saw the Galleries and Monuments, and also the Castle
and Parliament House. Saw almost all of Edinburg. Saw at the dinner
table a young
Found a book on America written by
Thurs. Aug 1st.
Saw St Giles Church and John Knox's house. Met a party of boys in the hotel parlor and sang Moody and Sankey songs with them
Fri. Aug 2nd.
Meet a young man named Jos Alexander who came over on the Scythia. We walked up to Arthurs Seat. Then I went down to Leith with him. Came back to the hotel, got dinner and went to Leith to take passage on steamer for Rotterdam. Got very sick on the steamer. The weather was very bad.
Was sick in the morning. We had a bad night but I slept very well. I laid abed till four oclock then went on deck, and sat till eight. Never want to cross the North Sea again.
Got up at two oclock and went on deck. Reached Rotterdam at 7 ½ A.M. Went to New Bath Hotel. Visited the great Cathedral, the Museum the statue of Erasmus and after table d'hote went to the Zoological Gardens and Park with a pleasant young man from London.
Went to the Hague with my English friend. We visited all the museums churches and so on then we walked out to the Park and saw the Palace in the wood. He returned to Rotterdam and I went on to Amsterdam.
Saw almost all of Amsterdam. This is the childrens week in Amsterdam and they have great fun in the Exchange where by accident I saw them.
Visited the Amsterdam Zoological Gardens, then took the train to Utrecht where I saw the old church and had a good walk around the ramparts. Visited the Museum. Could find only one other American name on the book. Went on to Antwerp.
Saw the Cathedral with Rubens great pictures. Met Mr and Mrs Foster and Charley Steward gazing at Rubens paintings Visited the Museum and the Zoological Gardens then rode to Rotterdam got my baggage that I left there on Monday, and then went to Brussels by the evening train
Saw the Cathedral, the Museum the Palaces, the Hotel de Ville, and after table de hote took a walk around the Boulevards with an Englishman.
Took a walk about the city and then went to Cologne where I visited the Cathedral and Church of St Ursala, going afterwards to Bonn for the night.
Rested at Bonn. Took a walk about the place, and saw the University. In the afternoon I walked up to the white church on the hilltop and had a grand view.
Started up the Rhine. Reached Coblence and went to a hotel for the night. Met a good natured Englishman who invited myself and another American boy to take a ride which we did.
Proceeded up the Rhine, got off at Biebrich and went to Wiesbadeu for the night. Attended a musical concert at the Kursaal.
Went in the morning to Mayence saw the Cathedral, its cloisters, the Statues and also walked up the hill to see the fortifications and old Roman ruin Met two clever Americans young men on the cars. Then proceeded to Heidleburg, reaching late at night.
Remained it Stuttgard seven and a half days. Roomed with him, and also dined at Frau Sieglin's. We saw the operas of Der Freischutz, Il Trooatore, and Lucia di Lamermoor. Had nice walks out in the country to little villages. Saw a great deal of German life.
Went to Baden baden, saw the place and tasted the mineral water. Went to a concert at the Cursaal in the evening.
Started early in the morning for Strasburg, saw the clock strike and then took the cars through the Black Forest, stopping at Triburg for the night.
Resumed my journey through the Black Forest and spent Sunday at the Falls of Rhine.
Went on the first train to Zurick walked to Uethiberg and back, (10m), and went on to Lucerne.
Ascended the Rhigi by rail road, came down again, went
to Fluelen, then rode in the diligence ten miles to
Was up at six oclock. Walked to Andermatt (15m) over the St Gotthard, reaching there in time to take the diligence back to Fluelen. There I took boat and returned to Luzerne.
Crossed the Brünig Pass by way of Alpnach(?) reaching
Started to wards Grindelwald but got no farther than Rosenlaui on account of rain. Studied German. Visited the gorge.
Walked from Rosenlaui to the Great Shideck, then attempted to go to the Faulhorn alone but got lost in the clouds and finally came down near Grindelwald. Saw the glaciers.
Wrote to Ben Phillips. Attended English church in the
parlor. Then walked
Went by steamer to Interlacken, spent four or five
hours there and then went by boat and
Ascended the Niesen, good view dinner on summit descended by Heustrich Bad (?) and walked to Thun in all 11 hours walk
Looked around Thun, went to Beun (?) saw that and went to Ouchy to spend the night.
Went by boat and rail to Martigny Like Lake Geneva very much. Stopped on the way to see the Pisvasche and the gorge at Vernayez. On returning to the station at Vernayez to go on to Martigny I met Mr and Mrs Foster and Charley Steward. We stayed at the same hotel at Martigny.
Got up early and walked over the Col de Balme. At the junction of the Col de Balme and Tete Noir roads I met the Foster party again. They had rode by carriage over the Tete Noir. I got in and road on to Chamoiur. (??)
Joined a party of twelve for nine hours walk up the
Walked over the Tete Noir and new Vernayez route to
Vernayez in time to get dinner and take train to Geneva,
Looked around Geneva in the morning and took three oclock express for Paris Reached Paris after an all night ride.
Spent eight days in Paris. Had a grand good time. Took Baedecker's excellent guide book and began at the beginning. Did not miss any places of interest of any importance except the Museum Cluny and the sewers.
Left Paris for London. Bad passage from Dieppe to New Haven. Did not reach London Bridge till half past two in the morning. Got a Hansom cab and drove to St Pancras station and got a room in the hotel.
Got up at 10 oclock, bought a Baedeckers guide book and started out I visited a great deal, - St Pauls, the Post Office, Heolborn Viaduct, the Central Meat Market, Shakespeares house, London Bridge Billingsgate, Nelsons monument, Black-friars Bridge, Victoria Embankment, Cleopatras Needle, Underground railway to Mansion House, Bank of England, Exchange, Tower of London, Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, St James Park, Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, the arches and monuments, and then returned to my hotel - A good days work.
Got up late, and then spent all my time in the British Museum, and afterward took the 3.30 train to Liverpool. Reached Liverpool late at night and put up at the Adelphhi.
Roamed around Liverpool in the morning, made a few purchases and embarked on the Algeria at two oclock.
Had a varied voyage. Bad storm for first two days and then had head winds all the way across the Atlantic. The passage occupied twelve days. Reached New York on Thursday Oct 3rd. Father met me at the dock. Was so fat he did not know me at first.
S/a/at = 390 = 63 s & 15 p
1878 Expenses from New York
American Family House
7.9.11 Rue de la Bienfaisance, near the Boulevard Malesherbes, Paris,
Mr. Jas Stevens
No 4 President st. E. Central st, City Road St Lukes, London,
Mem, Little soil.
Joseph Alexander, Jr.
|Transcribed by Alexis C. Kaelin 2003|